Chasing Giants: My Survival Guide to Nonsuch Falls
The Journey East
On Saturday, February 7, we left Kingston at 5:15 AM and headed east through St. Thomas toward Portland. Our destination: Nonsuch Falls, tucked deep away in the hills.
The drive took about three hours. By the time we arrived at the landmark shop and cemetery to descend from the bus, I had a major complaint: I’ve reached the age where sitting for three hours straight makes my muscles cramp up—but more on that later.
Axes and Ancestors
Upon entering the base camp, I found some of my hiking friends attempting to throw axes at a target. Not only were they missing, they had no idea what they were doing. Little did they know, I grew up in the hills of St. Thomas—hunting, fishing, and farming before I was five years old. I’m a pro at this.
The view from the campsite was, hands down, one of the best I’ve ever seen. It was breathtaking, I’d live in that very spot if I could. While the others sipped coffee and tea, we signed waivers that basically asked: “You could get injured or die; you still want to go?” We flew the drone to get some aerial shots before heading to the start of the trail.
The Descent (and the Fall)
The guides offered everyone hiking sticks. A few of us refused; I felt my ancestors would be ashamed if I used one. About 15 minutes into the trail, I deeply regretted that decision.
The terrain was so steep I was on all fours just to keep from rolling down the hill. Eventually, I did fall. Instead of asking if I was okay, the guide muttered under his breath about how he’d told me to take a stick. I wanted to give him a piece of my mind, but I saved that energy for the hike.
The trek to the falls is supposed to take about 45 minutes. However, between the muddy terrain and my choice of Hoka running shoes, it took us an hour and a half. We climbed over rocks, ducked under trees, and waded through the riverbed.
The Reward
When we finally arrived, it was incredible. You’re standing before a massive vertical drop—the water was ice cold and exactly what my aching muscles needed.
But while everyone was taking photos and swimming, I had one thing on my mind: How am I getting back up? The hill back to base camp felt steeper than Mountain Spring and was incredibly slippery and muddy.
After about 60 minutes of climbing, stopping, and resting, we finally made it back to base camp. I made sure to stretch, but it didn’t help. On the drive back, the bus had to pull over near Long Bay just so I could get some salt for the cramps. Two days later, my legs and my left big toe are still feeling the pain.
💡 Quick Facts: Nonsuch Falls
If you’re planning to visit, here is the breakdown based on my experience and local data:
- Height: 291 feet (89 meters) — tallest waterfall in Jamaica.
- Difficulty: 7.5/10. Extremely dangerous when wet.
- Pro Tip: Don’t trust the limestone; moss and algae make it slick. Use Waze; Google Maps is unreliable here.
- Cost: ~$3,000 JMD for nationals (Top & Bottom tour).
- Gear: Water shoes with traction. Mud-friendly sneakers minimum.
Would I go back?
Only to the base camp for the view. If you have proper shoes and a sense of adventure, go once. Everyone should see this giant at least once.